Thursday, April 16, 2015

Discovering the magic of Valais with Dr. José Vouillamoz








I met Dr. José Vouillamoz at lunch...in the Republic of Georgia.  An international gathering of wine professionals sat in the autumn sunshine eating roasted meats and drinking Rkatsiteli fermented in qvevri.  When I turned to make conversation with my table mate, he modestly revealed he was working on a book with the tremendous ambition of cataloguing the world’s grapes under production.  “Wow!” was all I could muster.
Three years later, I got to know José much better at the Digital Wine Communications Conference in Montreux, Switzerland.  There I learned that Swiss wines are not just of academic interest to José – they are a personal passion and a birthright, as he was born in the rugged mountains we would soon explore.
José, ampelographer (an expert in the study and classification of cultivated grapes) and vine geneticist, hosted a Swiss wine tasting at the conference with collaborator Jancis Robinson.  I tasted many Swiss wines for the first time, including Chasselas, also called Fendant and Gutedel, the country’s best known variety.  When sourced from over-productive vineyards, it’s a rather watery-tasting white, but today there are many well made Chasselas.  Jose described them as “like Muscadet on the nose and honey on the mid-palate.”
Tasting with José at the conference was educational, but only when our press trip took to the countryside did we see, smell, and taste the wonder of the Valais.  This is Switzerland’s largest wine region where wine grapes are harvested more than 1000 meters high.  We spent three days steeped in this alpine wine culture and tasted rare wine varities including Arvine, Amigne, Cornalin, Rèze, and more. 
Our first stop was an exceptional mountain vineyard.  Our bus couldn’t descend the terraced slopes, so we walked.  There is nothing like walking through the Swiss Alps.  The air has an almost heartbreaking sweetness.  Your spirits raise as you advance on soft dirt paths lined by lush green grass where small cows graze, their bells ringing “bom bom” as they walk. 
We zig-zagged down a rocky slope that had vineyards cutting across its face.  We concentrated on our balance as we snapped photos of magnificent vistas and repeatedly stopped in awe.  This vineyard was as incredible for its remote location and height as its beauty.  At a slight flattening in the ground, lunch and a tasting had been prepared.  Pumpkin soup from a brass cauldron, and a world of savory Swiss cheeses and dried meats awaited us.  We were spoiled with a fine selection of white wine, including sweet and dry Amigne and Arvine, and red wine including Humagne Rouge and a range of savory, bold Syrahs.  The wines were from the recently restored vineyards of Jean-René Germanier, whose wines have been recognized as among the best in Switzerland. He and enologist and co-owner Gilles Bess have devoted efforts to native varieties and working with the unique terroir of the Valais.
Afterwards, we hiked back up and hit the road again to visit Clos de Tsampéhro. Their Extra Brut was a refreshing sparkling wine blended from Petite Arvine, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay.  When we moved to the still wines, we sampled wines made from varieties most of us had never tried, including the red grape Cornalin (more properly called Rouge du Pays per José’s studies) and Rèze.   Cornalin is considered the “local lord” and Rèze used to cover the valley in the pre-phylloxera days.
The day concluded with a memorable visit to the Sensorama at Chateau de Villa in the village of Sierre for a truly exceptional tasting: Impossible Valais, in which José shared treasures from his personal wine collection.   All joking ceased as we took our seats in a beautiful, modern tasting space: we were humbled and honored at the wine we were about to taste.
Among the ten wines he poured for us, these stood out most to me:
Orsat Arvine Primus Classicus 1988 – This white had apricots and ripe peach flavors with even some racy grapefruit notes. It was silky and had a gorgeous richness, but, somewhat paradoxically, also a refreshing acidity. 
Provins Arvine 1971 – This wine also had strong apricot flavor as well as orange marmalade and blood orange. It had great balance and huge length. José’s comment on this: “It has become a meditation wine.”
Provins Amigne 1967 – This funky wine had mushroom and scones on the nose and high acidity still. José told us this grape was first mentioned in 1686 and this rare variety is only planted on 42 hectares in the entire world.
Orsat Johannisberg St-Théodule 1955 – This white made from the Silvaner grape had a fresh, inviting nose, with scones and currents. On the palate, I found yellow raisins, quince paste, marmalade, lemon cream, and pumpkin. José told us that 1955 was the vintage of the century for Valais.  
It was at that point, we began to question, only half-jokingly to ourselves – were we even worthy of these wines?  
Stéfano Délitroz Rouge du Pays 2011 – fast forward to the present, we had a beautiful red.  There was smoky bacon on the nose and palate, and deep blackberry flavors.  The acidity, fruit, and alcohol were in balance.  I loved this deeply concentrated wine, which was like a meal in a glass.  We learned that this wine came from 80 year old vines, a special parcel owned by two people who knew how great these vines were – José and Stéfano Délitroz.  
Bourgeoisie de Grimentz Vin du Glacier 1886 Solera – This wine was made from Rèze.  If the tasting had not already earned its name, “impossible,” it certainly did with this wine.  The wine had been topped up over the years, with the base wine dating back to 1886.  It is from the village of Grimentz, and it is only ever available by making the journey to the wine cellar. José had to convince them to let our group try the wine.  They agreed on the condition that we would tell the story.  There are only 20 liters of this wine in the barrel known as Tonneau de l’Eveque or the Bishop’s Tonneau (large format barrel).   The wine was deep in color and had a sherry-like flavor with almonds and hazelnuts. Savory, with a finish that seemed to never stop, we all agreed we had never tasted anything quite like it.  
There were many times for laughing on the trip and there were times when the normally ebullient José would say, “Now, we are serious.”  Tasting this wine was not just serious, it was a reverent moment that would never be repeated-- all of us in Switzerland, tasting these amazing wines together.
In the days that followed, José led our group to more wonderful wineries, including:
Amedee Mathier
Chanton winery
Domaine des Muses
Domaine Rouvinez
Simon Maye & Fils
Cave la Liaudisaz
We also were treated to an unforgettable authentic Swiss alpine meal at Restaurant Chateau de Villa, the “Temple of Raclette” where we indulged in plate after plate of melted cheeses accompanied by smoked meats, small potatoes, pickles, and breads. 

As we traveled with José across breathtaking mountain passes, his smile and generosity never failed him, all while teaching us so much about the heritage and history of these grapes (making me eager to add his Wine Grapes book to my personal collection, as I understood first hand his brilliant grasp of the subject.)  To sip wine, eat Raclette, and meet winemakers with him was an experience I will always treasure. José’s favorite expression as he led us through mountain vineyards and village wine cellars was “We are young, we are beautiful and we love each other.”  José’s knowledge of grapes’ heritage vastly enriched our understanding of Swiss wines - and his friendship vastly enriched our lives. 

Thursday, November 20, 2014

Top Ten Bojo Tips

Beaujolais Nouveau is released today, but there’s more to this region than that fresh and fruity youngster. 
   
1) The Beaujolais region is located in southern Burgundy just north of the French gastronomic capital of Lyon.  

2) The French drink their Beaujolais chilled.  

3) Ninety-nine percent of Beaujolais is made from 100% Gamay grapes.  

4) Beaujolais is made with an unusual fermentation process known as carbonic maceration.  

5) Beaujolais Nouveau—which is fermented, bottled, and released just six to eight weeks after harvest -- has pronounced fruity, candy-like flavors, high acid, very low tannins, and relatively low alcohol.   

6) The highest quality Beaujolais wines come from ten villages that are designated as Cru Beaujolais production areas. They are:  Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Cote de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, Moulin à Vent, Régnié, and Saint Amour.  

7) While many wine drinkers think Beaujolais should be drunk young, the more full bodied Cru Beaujolais wines can often age longer, especially in good vintages.   

8) There is a wine known as Beaujolais Blanc; it’s made from Chardonnay.

9) Beaujolais makes a great "bridge wine" at restaurants, as it can work with meats, poultry, and rich seafood such as salmon.  

10) Beaujolais is a beautiful area to tour with rolling green hillsides, charming small restaurants, hospitable bed and breakfasts and the Hameau Duboeuf -- a Disney-like wine tourism destination that offers animatronic skits and many interactive and entertaining displays. 

Whether nouveau or a more mature style, let's celebrate all the moods of Beaujolais today!



Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Light and Lovely Reds of the Hudson Valley

Never was the difference between east and west coast wines more apparent than during my recent visit to the Hudson Valley, New York, as a participant in a wine blogger weekend known as Taste Camp.

I am no fan of the heavy, jammy style of red wine that can be found in countless bottles from California.  While subtler styles exist, there is no arguing with climatic differences between the coasts.  California’s got a lot more warm sunny days and the grapes get much riper.  California’s weather can ripen the grapes that give us bold Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon among other heavy-weight pours..

On the East Coast, we have icy, snowy winters, a lot more rain, and uneven summers.  In short, our climate demands different grapes – and they create a completely different style of wine.  I, for one, often prefer the more subtle North East style.

Hudson Chatham Baco Noir
Baco Noir is a curious variety that I’ve never had from other wineries.  Hudson-Chatham winery owner Carlo Davito poured a number of versions of this wine, including Old Vines.  His wines were translucent and had subtle earthy flavors and sour cherry notes.  They were welcoming wines that didn't need to overwhelm the palate in order to interest the drinker.  There was a dimensionality to these wines, which was in stark contrast to many one-dimensional wines I have tasted from hotter climes.

Whitecliff Gamay Noir
This winery's Gamay Noir is another light wine that is made from the same grape as Beaujolais in France.  I might try serving it chilled in the summer with charcuterie or even burgers.  The style is easy, fresh, with strawberries on the palate and crisp acidity – a wine to enjoy in its youth.

Tousey Cabernet Franc
Moving up in weight class is Cabernet Franc.  This is a grape that can do quite well in the North East, including on Long Island and in the Finger Lakes.  Here in the Hudson Valley, winemaker Ben Peacock gets a fuller-bodied wine than Carlo’s delicate Bacos – but still with a far lighter style than any California Merlot.  The fruit flavors are blackberries and raspberries with a slight spicy edge.  I enjoyed his 2012 Cab Franc with a roasted chicken; it is the perfect heft for poultry. 

Victory View Vineyards Maréchal Foch
Perhaps the boldest wine I tasted during the weekend was from another little known grape, Maréchal Foch.  I myself had experience imbibing this wine from family vacations in Nova Scotia.  Winemaker/owner  Gerry Barnhart explained that he wanted to choose grapes that would grow well in their climate, and that this one is a hardy variety that can withstand tough winters.  I found it a balanced red wine with strong black fruit character – a hearty pour for stews and red meat, but still with lighter tannic structure and no cloying jamminess. 

The Hudson Valley is a quick two hour trip from New York City, and all of the wineries listed welcome visitors.  It is a particularly lovely weekend getaway in the autumn.  But don’t just go for the scenery – enjoy these beautiful wines that offer balance, delicacy, or even boldness – but always with a typical Yankee restraint.



Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Bordeaux Legends explores fascinating saga of First Growth wines

In the world of wine, certain names are held above all others.  While any rube with a whiff of sophistication knows Bordeaux, few people understand the scale of this region: 8,000 wineries produce 700,000,000 bottles of wine annually.  Despite this massive production, only 160 of these wineries are designated as classified growths.  And then there are best of the best:  the five first growth chateaux of Bordeaux: 
Haut-Brion
Lafite Rothschild 
Latour
Margaux 
Mouton Rothschild

Wine educator and journalist Jane Anson has written BordeauxLegends to trace the 500 year history of this illustrious  quintet.  I met Jane on my first trip to Bordeaux in 2007, when I attended her class at the Bordeaux Wine School.  We maintained a cross-continent friendship that has included dining on oysters on the quays of the Garonne River and sipping Oregon Pinot Noir at Corkbuzz in New York City. From Jane’s writings and Twitter stream, I have followed her to En Primeur tastings and learned the inside scoop on the comings and goings of Bordeaux’s elite.  She has been my window on this rarefied world. Her expertise as a Bordeaux correspondent for the British wine magazine Decanter and her residency in the city of Bordeaux give her a close perspective on the region.

Bordeaux Legends is beautifully illustrated with many luminescent photographs by Isabelle Rozenbaum. The book brings the reader straight into the world of Bordeaux, grounding us with the history of the region and sharing the excitement as the chateaux increased in renown and ultimately became a superpower in the world of wine.  Jane’s astute observations and her careful, yet approachable, prose make the region, its characters, even the terroir itself, come vividly to life.


With a foreword by Francis Ford Coppola, this beautifully published hardbound book is a welcome addition to the library shelves and coffee tables of any wine lover – especially those for whom the very names of the first growth Bordeaux chateaux inspire something akin to reverence.   


Sunday, June 8, 2014

My dinner with Oscar

Wouldn't you like to have dinner with a wonderful Portuguese?  Last night some new friends and I dined with Oscar - which is a wine (technically two - a white and a red) but also a member of the Quevedo wine family.

I met Oscar Quevedo Jr. in 2009 at the European Wine Bloggers Conference in Lisbon, and he still writes his family's winery blog. He is a prime example of how wineries can benefit from a likable brand ambassador who is adept at social media - and an all-around nice guy.   Along with his winemaker sister, Claudia, Oscar is one of the more youthful members of a family that has made wine in the Douro Valley for generations. Quevedo's extensive line up of Ports includes lovely ruby, tawny, white, rose, and vintage ports.

Yesterday Oscar was at Columbia Wine Company - which boasts quality wine from around the globe - located way uptown at 170th and Broadway in Washington Heights.  The store was hosting a tasting with over a dozen bottles from Portugal, South Africa, and more.  Those who know me well know I adore Port, and I did buy both Quevedo tawny and rose Ports straight off the tasting table.  However, I'm often more excited about the Douro's dry wines, because most people are unaware of them.  So I was eager to present these wines, made from blends of native Portuguese grapes, at last evening's intimate dinner party.

Oscar white was from 2012, and it was a  medium bodied white wine with a nose of green apple. It had refreshing acidity and crisp, bright fruit flavors. It was a perfect pairing with crab cakes served on arugula with hazelnut oil and a roasted red pepper coulis.

The red wines of the Douro are dense, with full-on black fruit and plenty of tannins to stand up to fatty dishes like lamb or steak.  As the sociable evening continued, my friend pulled the cork on the red Oscar and we sipped it with hard cheeses, including a buttery cheddar reserve.  It was a wonderful way to end the evening - which, had we decided to stay up even later, would have eventually led to that bottle of Tawny.  But my recently-purchased Quevedo Ports will have to wait for another magical evening of wine, food, and friendship.





Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Patricius Winery presents Tokaj wines at Hungarian Consulate in New York

The distinguished wines of Tokaj, Hungary, were the focus of an elegant lunch held at the Hungarian Consulate. The event was hosted by Ambassador Karoly Dan, Consul General of Hungary to New York and attended by Katinka Kekessy Wimpffen and Arno Wimpffen, the owners of Patricius Winery, as well as guests and media. 
Very few oenophiles know that Tokaj is among the world’s oldest designated wine regions. The five luncheon wines, all created from native Hungarian grapes, reflected this distinctive heritage. The afternoon included an open forum for discussion about the history and future of the Tokaj region. After the economic downturn of the communist era, the region is now seeing a rebirth. There is new energy being brought from families like Katinka’s. She returned to the home of her forefathers to renew the vineyards and start over with her own family in this historic land.
The afternoon began with a light-bodied white, the Harslevelu 2012 – the Hungarian word for “linden leaf,” which offered pretty floral nose with vanilla notes. Their dry Furmint was a fresh white wine with high acid, a good choice for many dishes and a wonderful alternative to the ubiquitous Chardonnay. The two varietal wines are also the component wines in the famous Tokaji Aszu. We were also treated to the Katinka late harvest, a delicate, sweet wine with a wonderful balance of acidity and sugar. The afternoon ended with the wine that made the area famous – the 2003 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos, Gold medal International Wine Challenge winner at London in 2013. This rich, sweet wine is made with a portion of grapes that have been affected by noble rot--in the same way that Sauternes is in France--and it was sipped with the reverence it deserved.

Friday, May 30, 2014

Insider Talk from Food Writers at New York Travel Festival

The second annual New York Travel Festival was a fun weekend of panels, workshops, one-on-ones and masterclasses with industry experts -- all aimed at providing insight and information to avid travelers. The event was held again at Bohemian Hall in New York City. The session that most spoke to culinary adventurous folks such as myself was What's Yummy in Travel. 

The panel was moderated by Matt Gross,editor of BonAppetit.com, who is a traveler, journalist, and author of  The Turk Who Loved Apples: And Other Tales of Losing My Way Around the WorldMatt was joined by Peter Meehan, co-founder of Lucky Peach gastronomy magazine, former New York Times food columnist, and author; Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan, a New York-based journalist and author of A Tiger In The Kitchen: A Memoir of Food & Family and former Wall Street Journal staff writer; and Jen Murphy, editor at AFAR magazine

What's it like to be a food writer traveling internationally? Sure, it can be glamorous, but according to Peter Meehan, there can be too much of a good thing. His first food writing trip to Europe included nine Michelin star restaurants in less than a week. Food writers face challenges other travelers don't, like when the local speciality is "fish cum" and you end up eating it at every meal, because every host wants to serve you their best dish.  How do you survive a press trip that includes five courses at lunch and dinner? Slender Jen Murphy confided she has resorted to hiding food in her purse. 

But, in a world where food writing seems to be everywhere, what makes a good food story? Jen Murphy believes it is a story that takes you deeply into a culture, a story where the food tells you about the history of a place.  Cheryl Tan likes to write about the characers that haunt the local hole-in-the-wall spots.  She told attendees that the best place to eat in Singapore is the red light district because "men are hungry and the food is cheap!"


The New York Travel Festival has been a spring in New York City event. Check the website in early 2015 for details on the next or follow them on Twitter at @NYTravFest to find out more.