Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru Les Petits Monts - ballerina of wines

We wine writers can be justly accused of taking flights of fancy when it comes to describing wine.

Disclaimer: I will do nothing to improve that questionable habit in this post.

Instead I want to propose a metaphor for the 2008 Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru Les Petits Monts from Domaine Robert Sirugue a Vosne-Romanee. We often speak (to the confusion of "regular people") of wine being feminine or masculine. I'll go one better. Not only is this wine feminine, but a certain type of woman. No curvaceous earth mother here. This wine is a ballerina - elegant, lean, balanced, and ethereal. And, with the fame Burgundy enjoys, she dances on a world stage.

She looks thin - tilt the glass and you'll see the translucent ruby of Pinot Noirs from this chilly climate. But she is not weak - while lithe, there is an inner strength. She knows who she is. Premier Cru Burgundy doesn't want to be big and brash--in certain vintages it is exquisitely delicate. Imbibers who regularly pour California or South American reds may have no appreciation for the restraint she shows. That's a shame, because just as a ballet dancer communicates deep emotion with the smallest turn of her wrist, Burgundy such as this is expressing profound Pinot Noir flavors, but in a delicate way.

While most people will acknowledge the grace of ballet, it's not everyone's thing. And so it is here. But for those people who appreciate subtlety and a centuries-old tradition of beauty, the ballet and this Burgundy are most satisfying.

Just how good was the wine at Cana?

Today Catholics heard a gospel reading that is surely one of my favorites - the tale of the Wedding at Cana.  This gem of a story makes me happy for a number of reasons.  First of all, the New Testament doesn't have many parties, but this is one of them.  Secondly, it was Jesus' first miracle - that gives our favorite beverage tremendous klout from a religious point of view. Thirdly, I love that Mary plays the role of nagging mom and Jesus is the seemingly uncooperative son.  After she nudges him to solve the problem of the wedding party running out of wine, he shrugs her off, "Woman, how does your concern affect me?" And yet, just like many sons, he ends up doing what mom wants anyway, asking servants to fill up jugs with water and then, when they are presented to the wait staff, they have become wine.

But not just any wine.  The headwaiter remarks with surprise that usually the best wine is served early at the event, but they have saved the best wine for last.  I love that normally the degree of how inebriated the guests are is inverse to the quality of what's being served.  But who hasn't experienced the phenomenon of wine, beer, cocktails, or anything tasting much better after the first few drinks have been consumed?  I'm sure it's a technique still used by hosts today, although I like to drink "the good stuff" all night if I can afford to.

I like to fantasize about what the wine at the Wedding at Cana tasted like.  I like to think it was more elegant than what was being made in the surrounding vineyards at the time.  Would it have the finesse of a Burgundy from the best years, perhaps a preview of Domaine Romanee Conti?  Perhaps the masterful power of a first Growth Bordeaux from a legendary vintage?  Once I had a 1973 Riesling that still was as fresh and youthful as a new wine - my dinner companion declared, "This wine just makes me happy!" It could have been a white, after all.

In the States, our puritanical zeal for a "drug-free America" often lands any alcoholic beverage in the same heap as the hardest drugs. But I like to remind anyone who thinks this way that wine is mentioned hundreds of times in the bible, and never more fondly than at the Wedding at Cana.

Zonin Prosecco makes Christmas treats merry

Foie gras, goat brie, shrimp cocktail, celery with onion dip, and a Tillamook cheddar are on the table. Later there will be pigs in a blanket, mozzarella sticks, and loads of other hors d'oeuvres. You never know what may end up being served at holiday cocktail parties. And you might think that no wine could work really well with all of these. But Prosecco is light in body and has a good amount of acid - it pretty much washes down fatty foods with aplomb as well as not overwhelming light fare such as shrimp. It is like a chameleon of wines, seeming to be as right with buttery foie gras as crudités. The Zonin is a nicely balanced choice and with only 11 percent alcohol, it can be consumed easily over the course of the evening. The wine is a great value, too, available for $12 or less locally.

Living the high (wine) life at Shake Shack

The Shake Shack in Madison Square Park is known for long lines and great beef.  But tonight, I discovered a new way to enjoy what many say is Manhattan's best burger.

It all happened when, two drinks into the evening, my new friend said, "Hey do you want to go to Shake Shack?"

We had been having one of those typical Manhattan first dates: chic location, overpriced alcohol, and an unusually good conversation that ranged from Baroque embellishments to waiters who rush you through your bottle of wine.  It was fun, but somewhat de rigueur - until the Shake Shack suggestion came.  This would be a game changer.

The thing is, I make a point of not eating on first dates.  I can't take in the meal anyway when I am soaking in all the physical details of a new person.  But - Shake Shack. Now that was allowed. Not only allowed - encouraged.

It happens to be that before tonight, I had never eaten there.  That's my foodie confession.  I hadn't intentionally avoided it. On warm summer evenings when there was a live band playing in the park, it beckoned to me - hard.  But there was always the line to contend with, and I never wanted to go there.

However, tonight the line was less than ten deep.  It gave me just enough time to peruse the half bottles of wine in the window. And I was frankly shocked.  Clos du Val? And Ridge?  There were no prices listed, but I thought the Ridge sounded fantastic.  A big California red to soak up all the delicious burger grease?  Thank you very much.

And, so, this is how a casual jaunt for what should have been a $20 meal became a $50 plus event.  The little bottle of 2008 Ridge, which was a Bordeaux style blend full of ripe black fruit and firm tannins, was a whopping $32.  Pretty pricey for a "restaurant" that had dysfunctional outdoor heaters and folding chairs where mice scampered in the 50 degree breeze.

And yet.

This was one of those truly memorable meals.  My first Shake Shack burger.  Those crisp wavy potato strips fried to not-quite-greasy perfection. The frisson of first date conversation. And the magnificent Ridge, which shone through the fading lights of the park and warmed me up body and soul.  It was a stellar dining experience after all.

Ceviche Loves Albarino

I know somebody (you probably do, too) who always tells me, "I only like red wines." I always reply, "You need to taste more white wines."  And this skeptic's mind was changed last night by Martin Codax Albarino.

For Americans who drank one too many taste-alike, heavily-oaked Chardonnays, the crisp, zippy, fruity Albarino wine can be a real surprise. 

Now, I believe there's a time and place for many wines, and, food, of course, makes all the difference.  While I could drink refreshing, lemony, sunny Albarino all by itself, or as us wine geeks like to say "as an Aperitif", it's absolutely delicious with fresh seafood, simply prepared.

One of the most wonderful pairings I had was at a recent lunch at Costanera in Montclair, New Jersey. My dining partner and I began our meal with their delicious mixto ceviche, which included fluke, shrimp, octopus, and squid.  The vinegar of the dish and the high acid wine were a refreshing pairing.

The Martin Codax Albarino is laughably affordable and widely available.  I recently poured it at a $15 and Below class at the South Orange Maplewood Adult School, and it was the hit of the evening.

Albarino is a native grape to Rias Baixas, which is in the region of Galicia, Spain, far in the northerwestern corner of the country.  Try it with seafood or by itself when you want a crisp, refreshing white that your friends who only drink reds may just love.

Top Five Impressions from 2012 Wine Bloggers Conference

I'm flying home from my seventh wine bloggers conference--I've been to four out of five in North America and three out of four in Europe. WBC12 was another well run event which brought together the ever-growing wine blogging community.
Here are my top five impressions from the 2012 Wine Bloggers Conference:
#1 Oregon is even more beautiful than I expected.
Having never been to the Pacific Northwest, I was truly looking forward to coming here. As I was Stand up Paddleboarding on the Columbia River, I looked up and saw snow capped Mount Hood rising over pine-covered hills. Its magnificence took my breath away.
#2 Oregonians are incredibly nice.
As an East Coaster, I was blown away by the genuine niceness, consideration, and polite demeanor of the natives. Even the briefest encounters included pleasant conversation and warm smiles.
#3 The people are the best part of wine blogger conferences.
I have so many friends in this community that I spent nearly the entire first evening just squealing and hugging as I saw each familiar face. But I also made what could be a valuable new contact and solidified another important relationship.
#4 Oregon doesn't make one-size-fits-all wine.
Every wine lover knows about Oregon Pinot Noir, but I discovered it can be stylistically all over the map: big, spicy, and dense with fruit, or delicate, pale, and earthy. Plus, with Pinot Gris, Syrah,and many more, the state has a lot of varieties to try.
#5 Wine blogging isn't going anywhere.
Five years ago when our small (less than 150) group of bloggers descended upon Santa Rosa, California, for the first Wine Bloggers Conference, we had no idea how this community would grow. This year, there were more than 350 attendees. I met many people who began their blogs just this year, and, amazingly we all are finding something different to say about this seductive beverage.

Columbia Valley perfect for sports-minded wine lovers

As I travel in Columbia River Valley in Oregon, I'm finding it's the perfect wine destination for sports and outdoors enthusiasts. The Columbia River American Viticultural Association (AVA) has a wide range of wines: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, Barbera, Syrah, Zinfandel, and more. The Valley is also a popular destination for weddings. Hiking, rafting, windsurfing, and more are available for sports enthusiasts, as well as stand up paddleboarding (SUP), which I'll be trying today. The valley is also known for its Anjou pears, apples, cherries, and many other fruits. The small town of Hood River is known for its local breweries, and there is a street that's referred to as Ale Alley in the town.
Cathedral Ridge Winery has a welcoming tasting room, where $5 buys you tastes of five wines. Their Pinot Noirs and Syrah are particularly noteworthy. Autumn is a perfect time to visit the valley, as its fall foliage is spectacular. The historic Columbia Gorge Hotel is beautifully situated on a crest above the river, and many rooms have sweeping views.