Registration Now Open for International Wine Tourism Conference

The fifth annual International Wine Tourism Conference will be March 15-17, 2013 in Zabreb, Croatia. Registration for the event is now open.
Croatian wine is increasingly being recognized on an international stage, even more remarkable because the country produces large quantities of its native varieties such Plavac Mali and Malvazija Istriana rather than international darlings like Merlot or Chardonnay. In addition, the country of Croatia, just across the Adriatic from Italy, is a fascinating destination, with rich culinary traditions that reflect its crossroads culture such as salami with Paprika - a little Italian, a little Hungarian.
The three-day conference features a very international perspective, as presenters come from around the globe to give their unique views on the state of wine tourism.

The International Wine Tourism Conference is relevant for anyone in the travel business who is looking to expand their tours to wine country, operators who want to get more bang for their wine-travel buck, and wineries that want to learn how to attract more visitors.

Campanian Whites Bring Pleasure to the Table

Campania is an Italian region that encompasses Naples and the coastline and inland to the south. The region is home to a number of indigenous varieties that are still being produced today.

At a dinner at Hotel il Molino as part of the International Wine Tourism Conference fam trip, I had the good fortune to dine at their chic and modern restaurant, sampling their chef's fine cuisine with a number of Campania wines.

The menu was exceptional: crispy polenta with a beef meatball, squid sausage on toasted bread with a pizzaiola sauce, tortello of caciocavallo cheese (a local specialty) with a cream of Paestum artichokes, slow cooked Marchigiano beef with carmelized onions.  This fine meal, made with locally sourced ingredients, was served alongside a host of local wines.

While a rule of thumb in the wine world is often whites to the north, reds to the south, the southern clime of Campania is perfect for growing wonderful indigenous white wine grapes.  Two of the wines stood out to me that luxurious evening.  The 2010 Fiano d'Avellino from Terredora winery was round on the palate, with peaches, lemons, and intoxicating floral aromas.  The 2009 Fiorduva from the Marisa Cuomo winery was also a stand-out. This wine is a blend of Fenile, Ginestra, and Ripoli. The grapes all grow on Dolomitic calcareous rocks on terraced vineyards that face the Mediterranean Sea.  The Fiorduva had a lemony zing that complemented the squid sausage magnificentlly.

With summer coming, look for the white wines of Campania to cool off. This distinctive, flavorful wines will make you forget about Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs and give your mouth a reason to celebrate.

Ancient Greek Variety Malagouzia Makes a Comeback

At the Celebrate Greek Wines kickoff party tonight, I discovered an intriguing white wine that's new to me, but old to the Greeks: Malagouzia. This ancient variety was nearly extinct when a professor from Thessaloniki discovered a patch of it and brought it to a Greek winemaker. That was back in the 1970s, and today the wine is having a wonderful second coming. I'm told it's become a cult wine in New York City, and I'm not surprised. The nose of a Malagozia draws you in with intoxicating white flowers, lychees, and stone fruit. On the palate, the wines, which clock in at 12.5 abv, range from dry to slightly sweet. The flavors include lychees, lemons, and lemon pith. Good structure, nice acidity, and a pleasing pour with shrimp appetizers that were being served at the fantastic rooftop space, La Piscine, at the chic and modern Hotel Americano.

Wine and Theater, Together at Last

Last week I had the pleasure to see Lonely I'm Not at Second Stage Theater  in New York City. The play, which featured a dynamite cast including the all-grown-up Topher Grace of That 70's Show, was a dynamic modern day romance. However, what really struck me from a wine point of view occurred before I entered the theater. That's because my Pinot Grigio was served in, well, a sippy cup. Oh! So I can bring it into the theater. How civilized. No more frat party chugging as the lights flash. It was a thoughtful touch at a lovely venue. If you're in New York, go see Lonely I'm Not. And take your time with your wine.

Getting Wild with Chardonnay at Roanoke Vineyards

Roanoke Vineyards on the North Fork of Long Island has a Chardonnay called The Wild! that provides flavor, satisfaction, and a little bit of funk.  I recently tasted the 2010 vintage of The Wild!, which goes far beyond the typical flavor profile of new world Chard, which, to my palate, tastes fruity but often comes up short.  The Wild! has a nose of limes and peaches. When I drank it, I immediately responded to the its full body, and I loved the complex flavors, which were tart and somewhat citric but also had hints of grass and a satisfying, long finish that was reminiscent of mushroom.  This really is a wild child Chardonnay!
The name is a nod to the use of wild yeast in the fermentation. Now, playing with wild yeast can be a bit of a crap shoot for a wine maker.  To give a small bit of scientific background, yeast is the living organism found naturally on grapes that eats the sugar in the grape juice and produces alcohol - that's the fermentation process. In modern winemaking, it's common for winemakers to kill the natural yeast and instead start fermentation with purchased yeast. That's because, in addition to causing fermentation, yeast also produces compounds that contribute to the wine's flavors.  With purchased yeast,  they know what flavors the yeast will bring to the wine.  With mother nature, you don't know how it will turn out.  Using purchased yeast can produce a consistently palatable wine.  However, that consistency can be a little bit predictable, a lit bit bland.
While problems with using wild yeast exist - fermentation may stop before it's done, off-flavors can develop - many winemakers recognize that it can provide layers of complexity to the wine, and that was certainly the result here.
I like the label of The Wild!, which features energetic swaths of colors and also the use of the explanation point in the name of the wine. This winemaking technique is exciting, and the results are too.  I've said before that it takes a special Chardonnay to win me over, and this is one of the rare ones that does.

Summer Cocktail - Choya Cherry Blossom

When the wine being poured is just so so, it's nice to reach for a specialty cocktail. Last night the whites at the New York Travel Massive, a monthly gathering of travel industry and blogger types, were showing their age. And, just like Grandma's wedding dress, we're sure they were lovely back in the day. But now, just like old satin, these were yellow and no longer fresh. For example, a 2008 Albarino should not be poured for anyone you like.
On the upside, the bartender Peter was mixing up refreshing cocktails, Choya Cherry Blossoms. Choya is a brand of Japanese Plum Brandy, and, at 14.5 alcohol, it's not nearly as potent as grape based brandy. However, the drink had plenty of kick from Tanqueray gin, a summer mixer if ever there was one. The result is a slightly sweet, slightly sour, fizzy treat. Here's the full recipe:

Choya Cherry Blossom
2 parts Choya Plum Brandy
1 part Tanqueray
Splash cranberry juice
Squeeze of lime
Shake, pour over ice in an old fashioned glass
Top with club soda

Citta del Gusto offers delicious taste of Naples

The Italian gastronomic center Citta delGusto, or City of Taste, has locations in both Rome and Naples. As a participant in the International Wine Tourism Conference fam trip, I was fortunate enough to attend a dinner at the Naples location, where local specialties were served in the large dining space. The highlight, of course, was Naples’ claim to the hearts of all Americans: pizza – crisp crust with the highest quality DOP ingredients including local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella.

The chef de pizza there is Michele Leo, who uses the technique of long leavening to increase lightness and digestibility of the dough.  Thanks to his in-depth understanding of the chemistry of the ingredients, he can use a low quantity of yeast and allow gluten to thicken the compound. 

Citta del Gusto is part of the Gambero Rosso organization, which was a proponent of Slow Food before there was such an expression and which publishes one of Italy’s most respected annual wine guides.  

Chef Leo’s pizza was served with numerous wines of the Campania region. And while pizza is terrific with red wine, such as the wonderful Aglianicos of the region, when in Naples, one also might consider indulging in a fizzy white wine, such as the refreshing sparkling Falanghina.

Visitors to Naples may also want to try a cooking class at the always tasteful Citta del Gusto.