Living in the shadow of some of the world's most revered vineyards is something that may feel like a bit of a hardship, but the Beaujolais wines of Georges DuBoeuf are getting along just fine, thank you. In fact, the proximity to Burgundy's Cote d'Or is even garnering the region some accolades as a value choice from the area.
Tasting through a number of 2020 and 2019 bottles from DuBoeuf's cru Beaujolais wines, I was pleased to note that they were a pleasure in their own right - and no comparison to other regions or styles was necessary. These are wines that are thoughtfully made and not trying to be anything other than terrific renderings of tangy, fresh, fruity Gamay.
It's always a pleasure to see Romain Teyteau, Export Director, North America for Les Vins Georges Duboeuf. Romain was in New York to show a selection of current releases at Benjamin Prime Steakhouse.
I was thrilled that we began with the Domaine Beranger Pouilly-Fuisse 2019. Pouilly-Fuisse has always been one of my favorite whites, and this one was drinking beautifully with aromatic white flowers and honey on the nose and a round mouthfeel with yellow apples and cream on the palate.
With an assortment of appetizers, we sampled the 2020 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages. The 2020 vintage has been characterized as "warm and clean" and this Villages wine was a reflection of that - tart raspberry on the nose and palate with an easy appeal and no perceptible tannin.
Moving on to our main courses (steaks all around) we began to explore the Cru Beaujolais wines of Georges DuBoeuf.
The Chateau de Saint-Amour 2020 had more black fruit character than is often found. Romain explained that the winemaking involves both whole cluster and destemmed fruit, which produces wines of intensity while keeping the texture silky.
Clos des Quatre Ventes Fleurie 2020 offered attractive aromas of tobacco and dried cherry. The fruit here is from a historic vineyard of 80-120 year old vines. The palate was full of tart cranberry and raspberry with bright acidity and low tannin.
Domaine de Javernieres Cote du Py Morgon had a delicate nose of violets and raspberries. The soil here is a cumbly schist that encourages vines to root deeply bringing minerality to the wine. On the palate, raspberries and blackberries with a touch of balsamic are balanced by light spice. The wine has good length.
Chateau des Capitans Julienas 2020 is full of ripe black cherry aromas and delivers the same on the palate, along with a hint of white pepper. Romain explained that the wine is made with some parcels going through carbonic maceration and others not. In addition, parts of the harvest are destemmed while others are whole cluster. The resulting wine has power and length while still maintaining elegance and low tannin.
Domaine des Rosiers Moulin-A-Vent 2019 had delicious cherry and spice aromas that paid off on the palate. Cassis notes added to the lushness. This is a wine of depth that will age, defying the idea that Beaujolais should only be drunk young.
It's always an education to drink through a number of the Cru Beaujolais villages. Each has its own special characteristics - some bolder, others more delicate, yet all quite special. These wines of Georges DuBoeuf reflect the pleasures that the 2019 and 2020 vintages have to offer and bring credit to the region.
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