From Chenin to Pinotage, Simonsig's current releases shine

Simonsig winery, based in the Western Cape of South Africa, celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2018, and this year's releases prove that the winery's longevity is well deserved.

Simonsig Marketing and Sales Manager Jacques Jordaan was in New York recently to present the wines available in the U.S. at a media dinner at the Korean restaurant Gaonnuri.  We enjoyed a range of highly seasoned  appetizers - including salty, spicy, and sweet flavors - followed by short ribs and other red meat main courses - and the wines stood up well throughout. 

The dinner kicked off on a celebratory note with the winery's exellent Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2017.  The name is Afrikaans for "Cape Sparkle."  This medium weight sparkling wine made in the traditional method had toasty notes of brioche from 24 months lees aging as well as herbal notes of chamomile as well as white stone fruit. The sparkling wine was excellent with a baby greens salad with sashimi.  It retails for $19.99, a great value sparkler. 

We progressed to scallion pancakes, and with these the Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2018 was a good match.  This wine was a well-executed rendition South Africa's signature white grape, with crisp notes of lemon and riper notes of melon, followed by a hint of minerality, all balanced with a good amount of acidity.   At $13.99 this is a fantastic white wine for everyday with lots of food pairing options. 

As we continued our feast, we tried the Simonsig Avec Chene Chenin Blanc 2017.  This rendition of Chenin had more complexity, as the oak aging brought a different layer of structure to this wine that is sourced from the Estate's oldest Chenin vines, some dating to 1986.  It is a wine that warrants more consideration, with layers of ripe pear followed by a bit of minerality and a touch of marzipan. It retails for $35.99. 

Our third white was the Simonsig "Sunbird" Sauvignon Blanc 2018.  I found this wine crisp with bright flavors of lemon and melon - a delicious wine with enough acidity to pair well with the fried scallion pancakes. Another value pour at $17.99 

With the appearance of main courses - mostly beef and short-ribs - we welcomed the Simonsig red wines to the table. 

The Simonsig Pinotage 2016 exhibited bright cherry flavors and aromas and had a bit of spice on the back end with a medium long finish.  This entry-level Pinotage shows the aromatic fruit nicely and is well priced at $17.99. 

Simonsig Redhill Pinotage 2016 really won me over with ripe sour cherry flavors mingling with blackberries and a hint of white pepper all supported by firm tannins and a long finish.  Simonsig has an award-winning winemaker, Debbie Thompson, who brings out the best in this sometimes difficult grape.  This high quality wine retails for $37.99 

Although I have tasted the wines of Simonsig on a number of occasions, I didn't recall having their Bordeaux blend, and I ended up being a huge fan.  The Simonsig Tiara 2015 is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petite Verdot.  I found the wine to be very elegant, with plush black fruits including plums, black cherries and blackberries, along with a hint of spice and a very long finish.  I found this wine to be very drinkable at the moment but also worthy of aging - it retails for $38.99. 

Next came the Simonsig Merindol Syrah 2015, a 100% Syrah wine from Stellenbosch. This is a big red, with cherries and chocolate on the nose and palate.  While it was a robust, big bodied red, I also found that it was balanced and had a nice amount of acidity to keep the wine from feeling heavy in the mouth. This was another wine I would drink immediately or age for 5-8 years. It sells for $43.99 in the U.S. 

As tiny chocolate-filled madeleines made their way across the table along with other rich desserts, we ended dinner with another refreshing sparkling wine, the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rose 2017.  I enjoyed its persistent effervescence as well as the flavors of strawberries and cloves.  As much as Americans love their rose wines, I have a feeling this wine - comprised of 72% Pinot Noir, 27% Pinotage, and a dash of Pinot Meunier - will be popular, especially at the $24.99 price. 

The night had been a wonderful showcase for the strong quality and precise winemaking of Simonsig. These wines stood up to the many strong flavors of Korean food we enjoyed, and were also delicious on their own.  The fact that even the most high-end bottles are less than $45 seems to ensure that Simonsig will continue to be a successful South African wine producer for at least another 50 years. 

Wines of Brasil pursue a sparkling agenda

Brazilians are known for fun - carnival parades, the beaches of Rio, dancing the Samba until all hours.  But winemakers in Brazil are getting serious about creating world-class sparkling wine, which, when you think about it, is always a fun beverage.

Brazil is not a huge wine-drinking country, with a paltry 2 liters per person per year consumed there. Those Brazilians who do drink wine, like it on the sweet side.  But today's young generation of winery owners and winemakers are looking to capture foreign markets with dryer wines suited to international tastes - and at the forefront of that effort is a push for sparkling wine. 

Brazil's pursuit of sparkling wine success encompasses all levels of production. The more economical charmat method creates value-driven wines that are fruit forward and fizzy - straightforward and easy drinking. But Brazil also makes sparkling wine with the "traditional method" used in Champagne and other prestigious regions, in which secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.  This produces wines with more toast or biscuit notes from the extended time on the lees, or dead yeast. Traditional method Brazilian wines are at a quality level that can compete with wines such as French cremants and California sparkling wines. The price point of around $18-$25 makes them an attractive alternative to sparkling wines that start at double that price.   

There are over 100 grapes grown in the huge country, with about an even split between white and red. There are no native grapes grown here, so you see international varieties such as Chardonnay and Merlot, as well as varieties that reflect the country's Portuguese roots as well as the Italian heritage of many of the people in southern state of Rio Grande do Sul, where some of the most successful wineries operate.  

Brazil is also aspiring to become a wine tourism destination. The rolling green hills of the Serra Gaucha wine region and elegant new winery hotels are sure to attract travelers ready for a new country to explore with a glass of bubbly always at the ready.  

Piper Hiedsick is an Oscar-worthy choice for tonight

Piper-Heidsieck is the official Champagne of the Oscars, so when you tune in tonight you’ll know this is the bubbly that the stars themselves will be celebrating with. Why not pick up some bottles for your own Oscar-watching party to commemorate a great year of film?  Whether you’re rooting for Rami Malek or Bradley Cooper, Glenn Close or Melissa McCarthy, you can drink like a Hollywood star.

Nothing says elegance like Champagne, and Piper-Heidsieck has been a glamorous choice for centuries – Marie Antoinette loved to drink the cuvee in the eighteenth century. Over the years, Piper-Heidsieck was poured at royal courts across Europe and Asia.

Adding elegance to your own Oscar watching – whether at a posh party or in your PJs – is as easy as popping a cork of Piper-Heidsick.  Your choice of snacks runs the gamut, as Champagne pairs with nearly everything! But perhaps the best choice tonight is to drink Champagne with buttered popcorn.  So start popping and pouring to get ready for Hollywood’s big night.

Valdivieso exceeds its sparkling reputation with well-crafted Chilean reds

The neon Valdivieso sign - a larger-than-life bottle of sparkling wine being poured into two flutes - is so beloved a fixture in Santiago that it was declared a national monument in 1954. The winery was the first sparkling wine producer in the Americas, having produced its popular bubbly since 1879.

And while the historic winery still enjoys wide popularity for its sparkling wine, it is also exploring Chilean terroir to create a range of still wines for both domestic and export markets. 

I had the opportunity to meet Valdivieso winemaker Brett Jackson in New York recently at a media event.  Brett began making wine in his native New Zealand, and -- in a career that has spanned decades -- he also has made wine in Napa, Stellenbosch, and Southwest France.  Brett brought this world-wide experience with him when he joined the winery, and he's made great strides in strengthening its still wine program.  We tasted through some of the winery's current releases of red wines, and I was impressed by their overall elegance and balance. 

Valdivieso Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2015, Curico Valley - A gorgeous, rich rendition of Cab Franc with ripe red berries and minerality. 

Eclat Cinsault 2017 - A delicate wine, with a translucent ruby color. This wine also had red berries on the palate and a crisp light weight.  Brett told us it is dry farmed from vines on their own rootstock and fermented in stainless steel to preserve its freshness. 

Caballo Loco Grand Cru Apalta 2014, Colchuagua Valley - Brett informed us that the "crazy horse" reference in the name was from one of the winery owners who was a larger than life character.  He  explained that the Caballo Loco wines are meant to reflect the "essence" of where they come from.  This wine from Apalta is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere. The rich, full-bodied wine has ripe red and black fruits and a mineral finish - a bold wine for steaks, chops, and hearty stews. 

Caballo Loco Grand Cru Limari 2014, Limari Valley - This wine showcases Syrah from the Limari Valley, where its proximity to the coast produces a cool influence but there is also plenty of sunshine. The vineyard soils contain calcium as well as salt. This was another big wine, with full mouthfeel, and it exhibited fully ripe black fruits, spice, good acidity, slight minerality and a long finish.  

Valdivieso Eclat Old Vines Blend Vigno 2010 - This project blends old vine Carignan and Mourvedre from the Maule Valley with at least 40 to 60 years of age.  All of the grapes are from bush vines that are dry farmed.  The resulting wine has a delightful freshness, with sweet bing cherry flavor -- and a high acidity that makes it ageworthy.  

The still red wines from Valdivieso that we tasted were high quality and well-balanced, and all sell at appealing price points between $25-$35.  For lighter style reds, reach for the Cinsault or Cabernet Franc. And for a bold red pour, the Caballo Loco line delivers.  

American football deserves the iconic American wines of Robert Mondavi

Stumped about what wine to pair with cheering for the Super Bowl?  With over 50 years of play, the game is as American as you can get, so why not pour an iconic American wine? 

Robert Mondavi was one of the pioneers of Napa Valley, founding his eponymous winery in 1966.  Robert Mondavi wines created from the now-legendary To Kalon vineyard (the name means "highest beauty" in ancient Greek), are wonderfully expressive. This vineyard sources the winery's signature Fumé Blanc - the Sauvignon Blanc named with a nod for the Loire Valley's Pouilly Fume - as well as its superlative Cabernet Sauvignon.

Looking for some delicious wine and food pairings for tonight's game? 

• 2016 Robert Mondavi Reserve To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc with oysters - The aromatic citrus notes of the Sauvignon Blanc along with its creamy mid-palate will match wonderfully with fresh oysters.
• 2017 Robert Mondavi Winery Pinot Noir Caneros with stuffed mushroom caps - this lighter-bodied red with notes of dark cherries and baking spices is a good weight to pair with this crowd-pleasing vegetarian appetizer. 
• 2014 Robert Mondavi Oakville BDX Napa Valley with pepper-bacon potato skins - This Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from the To Kalon vineyard and Cabernet Franc make a plummy, lush red wine that's not shy on flavor and will deliciously pair with rich and smoky bacon on these classic game-time snacks. 
• 2014 Robert Mondavi Reserve To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Napa Valley with grilled steak nachos.  Gorgeous layers of dark fruit are expressed in this lush wine, which will beautifully complement the seared steak of this shareable dish.  

Starting the New Year with a Nouveau attitude

Beaujolais Nouveau had a great vintage in 2018, according to Franck Duboeuf, so it's time to give these wines a taste beyond the Thanksgiving holiday. 

Franck was in New York to introduce this year's line of new wines from the winery founded by his father, Georges. The Georges Duboeuf wines from the new harvest include Beaujolais Nouveau and Beajolais Village Nouveau - which is made from grapes grown in villages designated for the quality Gamay grapes. And now the line includes Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé. 

Ringing in the new year, make a resolution to broaden your palate with the lighter-style wines of Beaujolais Nouveau.  They are perfect aperitif wines to welcome guests with as they arrive and to enjoy with lighter flavored meals.  

I attended a media event with Franck Duboeuf at Morton's Steakhouse. We got to taste through the 2018 Beaujolais Nouveau lineup as well as some more mature Beaujolais from the Cru Villages.  

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2018 - Fresh and fruity wine, smooth red fruits, bright and fun. 

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Village Nouveau 2018 - A more sophisticated rendition of the fresh Nouveau style, this wine had intense aroma and palate of crushed blackberries and raspberries. 

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé 2018 -  Produced from hand-harvested grapes, Franck informed us that this wine was made as a "true rosé," meaning that it is made by brief skin contact on the juice. I found it light bodied with pretty strawberry and raspberry flavors - an engaging wine for the rosé lovers in your crowd. 

We also tried several other offerings from Les Vins Georges Duboeuf. 

Pouilly-Fuissé 2016 - From the Macon region, this wine had a fresh citrus aroma and clean, bright flavors of lemon and minerality, with a good finish. 

Jean Ernest Descombes Cote du Py 2017 - From 50 year old, south facing vines, this wine had a fresh red fruit nose and rich flavors of ripe bing cherries as well as minerality on the palate.  A delicious wine that shows depth of flavor and a good finish. 

Chateau des Capitans Julienas 2017 - Fresh aromas of black cherry and white pepper, the wine offers raspberries and cherries on the palate with a hint of tannin.  This wine is made from grapes grown in the heart of the AOC Cru Julienas region. 

So, whether a light-bodied Beaujolais Nouveau or a more structured Cru Beaujolais, the wines of Georges Duboeuf offer a way to bring new flavors to your glass in 2019. 

Feudi di San Gregorio offers world-class modern wines from ancient grape-growing lands

It was the label that first caught my eye. A compact square offering a graceful reproduction of Byzantine mosaic from the Galla Placida mausoleum in Ravenna.  Under that, a second square with the winery's name in an elegant font: Feudi di San Gregorio.

Ancient roots and a modern aesthetic are good representations of Feudi di San Gregorio.  The winery is located in Irpinia near the famous volcano Mount Vesuvius in southern Italy's Campania region. The hilly land of Irpinia has been growing wine grapes since antiquity, and its vineyards were referred to in work by Pliny.  

Yet the winery of Feudi di San Gregorio was established less than four decades ago in 1986.  Today the winery has a futuristic look, thanks to its design by Japanese architect Hikaru Mori that was constructed in 2004.  An elegant Michelin-star restaurant, Marenna, completes the package of a contemporary destination for wine and food pairing.  But, despite the modernity of the exterior, the winery honors the old, indigenous grapes of Campania:  Aglianico, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, and more.  

It is this seamless integration of old and new that fascinated me when I had the opportunity to meet Antonio Capaldo, Chairman of Feudi di San Gregorio, when he was last in New York. At a media dinner in Manhattan, I tasted through a number of his current releases: 

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo DOCG 2017 - Medium gold in color, the wine was a well-structured white with lemon and minerality.  I considered that it would be delightfully food-friendly with many dishes thanks to its high acidity. 

Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2017 - Highly aromatic with notes of white flowers, the wine had a rich, round mouthfeel and lush white peaches on the palate. This is a gorgeous white. 

Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG 2013 - The winery's Taurasi wines are made from 100 percent Aglianico grapes, and they're aged for 18 months in French oak before completing their aging in bottle.  On the nose, I found vanilla and pomegranate. The palate was layered with fresh black plum and blackberry, as well as firm tannins. 

Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2012 - This is a huge wine that was created from the winery's best hand-selected Aglianico grapes.  On the nose there were violets and herbs.  Tasting revealed blackberries, spicy notes of pepper, savory notes of olive, and a long finish with more blackberries and blueberries.  This is a wine to enjoy now and over years as it evolves.  

I saw Antonio shortly after at Robert Parker Wine Advocate's Matter of Taste.  There I had the opportunity to sample a vertical tasting of one of the more interesting wines of Feudi di San Gregorio - its Patrimo line.  The tasting was led by Antonio and the Wine Advocate's Monica Larner.  The Patrimo wines are unique and a slight contradiction - in a winery that focuses on native Campania grapes, these wines are crafted from Merlot.  However, the single-plot Merlot vines are impressively 75 years or older.  They were present when Antonio's family acquired some vineyard areas, and thus are a heritage part of the property.  While the grape variety means these wines are labeled IGT rather than DOCG, they have become flagship wines of the region.  

My favorite wines from this vertical included: 

Feudi di San Gregoio Patrimo 2001 - Intense red fruit in a wine that balanced tannin and acidity elegantly. 

Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo 2009- Deep crimson in color, the wine had an intense black cherry nose that was echoed in a plush palate of juicy, ripe black cherries. 

Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo 2010 - A nose where violets and blackberries intermingled, this was big, complex wine that offered bing cherries, as well as savory notes of balsamic vinegar and rosemary. 

Feudi di San Gregorio has made a name for itself as a leader in the Campania region. Their outstanding range of red and white wines are easily available in the U.S., but the most devoted fans may wish to book a flight to Naples to experience the hospitality and gourmet cuisine of the winery in Sorbo Serpico.