Sunday, March 5, 2023

Bodegas Bianchi new releases show lasting luster of family-owned Argentinian winery

Bodegas Bianchi is a historic family-owned winery in Argentina that has been producing wine since 1928. With successive generations, the winery grew and modernized, and in 2018, the family brought in renowned Argentine winemaker Silvio Alberto to be Wine Director. For the past five years, he's been on a mission to update classics and expand their vineyards beyond their home in San Rafael, the southernmost part of Mendoza. 

Silvio was in New York recently showcasing the current releases at a media dinner at Capital Grille. Sitting down with Silvio, a gregarious man of good humor and wine wisdom, is always a treat. He discussed how winemaking has changed at the bodega to provide more of what today's consumers want. One of the changes is that the heavily-oaked wines of the past are no more - now the wines that do see oak get lighter touches of wood. Today's palates also seek more freshness in wines. Silvio explained, "People like more fruit, more acidity." 

Bodegas Bianchi wines sampled included: 

Famiglia Bianchi Chardonnay 2021 - This wine had both fresh apple as well as some honey and butter, and offered crisp acidity. I was impressed that the wine had complexity and rich texture at the price point of $18.99. 

Famiglia Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 - Surprisingly light and fruity, this Cab had blackberry on the nose and palate, fine tannins, balanced acidity, and lots of freshness. $20.99. 

Gran Famiglia Bianchi Malbec 2019 - My first note was simply "delicious" for this wine. On the nose there was leather, caramel, black cherry, and on the palate I tasted chocolate covered cherries. This was a full bodied wine with good length and mouth-filling fruit. This is one of the wines from the Uco Valley, 3600 feet above sea level. $29.99

Particular Bianchi Malbec 2019 - A very structured wine created from 30-year-old vines in San Rafael, this Malbec had inviting aromas and flavors of toffee, cherries, and spice. Silvio told us that the wines from the Finca Asti Vineyards of Parades are known for having notes of pink peppercorn as well. This was an exciting Malbec that would certainly age longer. $39.99 

Particular Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 - Also from San Rafael, this is a blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. Blackberry was on the nose, and flavors of blackberry, blueberry, spice, and a little rosemary created a lively palate. The wine was full bodied with long length. $39.99 

Enzo Gran Corte 2018 - This blend has Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. The name Enzo honors the son of the original founder. This powerful wine had a big nose of red and black fruit and notes of caramel. The palate was quite rich, with dense, ripe fruit and fine tannins. It's a wine of elegance with great length. $69.99 

Our delicious Bodegas Bianchi wines were brilliantly paired with the Capital Grille's famous steaks, for a wonderful food and wine pairing treat. What struck me most about this dinner - other than Silvio's charming personality - was the way that these wines really were punching above their weight. For relatively modest price points, they were delivering very well crafted wines that had distinct qualities that showcased their Argentinian terroir.  

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