Chile’s Ventisquero winery is a quality-focused house that
seeks to produce wines from some of the most highly-regarded regions of the
country, including Coastal Maipo, Casablanca, Leyda and Huasco valleys. A relatively young winery with first
plantings from 1998, the winery has built a reputation for producing award-winning
wines.
Winemaker Alejandro Galaz met a group of media in New York City
recently to pour his most recent releases and share his vision for the wines he
is producing.
Alejandro shared some details about why the wines of Ventisquero
are being recognized for the quality and style.
One contributing factor the their success is that they only use estate
fruit owned by the winery, so that they have control from vineyard to
bottle. Alejandro himself specializes in
Pinot Noir and white varieties for the operation. His passion for Pinot can be attributed in
part to time he spent in Burgundy. Of that experience, he remembered, “I
discovered how they work with the stems.”
Accordingly, Alejandro has been adding more stems to his Pinot noir
barrels, and in 2018 some of his wines had as much as 50% stems in the
fermentation. He finds that adding stems
in addition to the fruit gives the wines good structure.
His passion for the grape was evident, and he said that, “For
me, Pinot Noir is all about finesse and elegance and trying to express the
place it came from.”
Heru Pinot Noir,
Casablanca Valley, 2017 – “Heru” is that hat of an elf, and it refers to
a local myth of an elf who guards a treasure – in this case the granite soil is
what’s valuable. This wine was complex
with peppers, cranberries, strawberries, spicy and minerality. It was a Pinot Noir of note that sells for
$40.
Grey Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley, 2017 – With a fresh nose of
black fruits, this wine is from terraced vineyards. I found the profile to be
inviting and fresh with blueberries and black berries on the palate as well. $22
The Tara Vineyards - Tara is the name of a local salt mine.
Alejandro told us that millions of years ago the Andes were under the Pacific
Ocean and that the foothills of the Andes had salt lakes that dried and left
salt. The vineyards where Tara wines are
grown have limestone and salt in the soil, affecting the resulting character of
the wines.
Tara Red Wine 1/ Base Wine Pinot Noir, Atacama, 2016 – I enjoyed the very perfumed nose of tobacco
and roses and the nice weight on the palate, where flavors of dried cherry were
prominent. The wine also had a good acidity. $40
Tara Red Wine 2 / Base Wine Syrah, Atacama 2016 – This wine
had a richer structure. The aromas were more savory – bacon, smoke, and
spice. The palate belied more stewed
cherry and baking spice. A rich wine for
hearty winter stews and meats. $40
Tara White Wine 1 / Base Wine Chardonnay, Atacama, 2016 –
The nose was briny with a whiff of salt air as well as herbal tones of chamomile. This white gets structure from being aged on the
skins. Old used barrels are used to give the wine texture rather than to add oak
flavor. $40
Alejandro is a passionate wine maker who also believes that the most important part of wine is "to have a nice moment with wine." As we finished our meal and savored a last pour together, I couldn't help but to appreciate his wine-making and his philosophy about sharing good moments with friends over a good bottle.
As a whole, I found the wines of Ventisquero to be delightfully
unique, while still very accessible. For such well-crafted wines, the price of these
bottles is absolutely a good value in the world of wine. I encourage wine
lovers who seek a deliciously different expression of familiar grapes to seek
them out.
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